Introduction to Ometepe Island (Isla de Ometepe)
There wasn’t another place in Nicaragua that had me more excited to visit than this hourglass Island I’d heard about called Isla de Ometepe (Ometepe Island). I’d seen pictures of the perfectly shaped conical Volcanos rising from Lake Nicaragua.
The excitement started to grow as I stepped onto the Ometepe ferry in San Jorge and could see these majestic peaks right in front of me. The name Ometepe comes from the Nahuatl language meaning “Two Mountains.”
As we cross the lake, getting ever nearer to this magical island, the clouds start to surround the peak of Volcán Concepción. They hang in a perfect halo around the Volcano’s top, protecting it from the outside world.
Ometepe Island is two volcanoes, one active (Volcán Concepción) and one dormant (Volcán Maderas). The two volcanoes are connected by a narrow isthmus named Istián, stretching 2 miles in length. Volcán Concepción is the taller, perfect conical peak, at 1,610 metres high. Maderas is slightly smaller at 1,394 metres.
No travel itinerary to Nicaragua would be complete without visiting this volcanic island; where else can you stay so close to an active volcano and enjoy such diverse nature on your doorstep?
Getting around Ometepe Island
An important question is, “what is the best way to get around Ometepe Island?” Ometepe is deceivingly large and much bigger than it looks from afar or on a map.
As there are many things to do on Ometepe Island, the best and most efficient way to travel around the island is to have your own transport. Consider renting a scooter or ATV for at least part of your stay.
There are buses on the island, but they are slow, infrequent, and unreliable. Hiring a vehicle is essential, or getting around the island can be difficult and slow.
As you travel around the island, keep an eye out for wildlife. You will likely come across Capuchin Monkeys swinging in the trees near the lake. You might see Howler Monkeys if you’re lucky, but you will probably hear them rather than see them.
Be aware that the ring road around Maderas is not completely tarmacked yet and cannot be driven if you only have a scooter. See the map below; a portion in the south is not driveable, so make sure you know this before you plan your route.
Best Things to do on Ometepe Island
There are many cool things to do on Ometepe Island. Here is my complete guide on where to stay and how to get there.
#1 Rent Transportation on Isla De Ometepe
As I mentioned, Ometepe Island’s number one thing to do is rent some transport. Think of this as an activity rather than just a mode of transportation. It’s a lot of fun to ride on a scooter or ATV, and this is a perfect place to do it as the roads are not busy, so it’s safer than driving on the mainland.
It’s ubiquitous to rent a scooter, motorbike, or ATV on Ometepe. Agencies offer rental vehicles when you get to the Port in San Jorge (the mainland). Don’t be rushed into hiring one from here, as there are plenty of agencies on the island.
I met someone on the bus from Granada to Rivas who gave me details on an excellent scooter rental company on the island. I got in touch via WhatsApp and agreed on a price of $15 per day (24 hours) for three days. This was a good price as other rental agencies offered between $20 and $25 per day.
You can find the agency just off the road running from the Port, they are called Dinarte’s Motorbike Rental, and I highly recommend them. Try to find an agency with good reviews, ensure you have insurance included, and check the vehicle before paying for anything.
You will need to leave your credit card details for a deposit, so check the vehicle’s condition carefully and take pictures or videos of any damage.
Scooter, Motorbike or ATV?
I decided to hire a scooter as I have experience in the past; I owned a Vespa for a couple of years. Alternatives to a scooter are a motorbike, or more like a dirt bike or an ATV.
A motorbike can be helpful as it is better off-road than the scooter, particularly when visiting San Ramon Waterfall. The motorbikes are generally a little more expensive than scooters.
The final option available is to rent an ATV. An ATV is a 4-wheel vehicle which is a good option if you’re not comfortable on two wheels. Be aware, though, that the cost of the ATVs is a lot more expensive. The cheapest option I could find was $80 per day.
#2 Experience Isla De Ometepe's Best Sunset at Punta Jesus Maria
The number two thing to do in Ometepe is visit Punta Jesus Maria. Punta Jesus Maria is the most westerly point on Ometepe Island. It’s a narrow spit of land south of the main town Moyogalpa. The main reason to come here is the fantastic sunsets.
It’s only a short 10-minute drive from Moyogalpa to reach Puna Jesus Maria. You can park your transport in a car park and walk to the beach. There are a few little huts selling refreshments and benches and tables to sit.
You could spend an afternoon here relaxing by the beach, but the highlight is the sunset. As the sun begins to set, people gather on the narrow spit, beer in hand, to witness the changing colours of the sky.
Don’t miss this experience while on Ometepe; it was one of my favourite nights on the island.
#3 Visit Ojo De Agua Natural Swimming Pools
Ojo De Agua is a set of two natural pools with a swing rope at one end and a tightrope at the other. The water is crystal clear and cool enough to be refreshing without being ice cold. After a few minutes, it’s a perfect temperature to relax and enjoy.
Although Ojo de Agua may look like a regular swimming pool, the water comes from a natural spring from an underground river flowing from Volcáno Maderas.
The setting of the pools couldn’t be better, surrounded by lush green jungle vegetation. There is a bar and restaurant on site to buy refreshments if needed and at reasonable prices. The entry fee was 179 Cordobas.
#4 Hike to San Ramon Waterfall
If you feel like a bit of exercise on Isla de Ometepe, a good option is San Ramon Waterfall. The hike is moderate difficulty and can be completed (one-way) in about 90 minutes.
San Ramon Waterfall is found on Volcáno Maderas, the smaller of the two volcanoes. If you start the walk from the entrance, it takes about 90 minutes to reach the waterfall. You can make this a bit shorter if you have a dirt bike – this option reduces walking time to about 45 minutes.
To be honest, the waterfall is not the greatest I have ever seen, especially in the dry season. This activity is more about the journey than the destination. The waterfall may be more impressive if you go during the wet season.
How to get to San Ramon Waterfall
From the village of Santa Cruz, follow the main ring road south until you reach the Ometepe Biological Field Station. There is a small car park facing the lake where you can park your scooter or ATV.
The entrance and starting point for the hike is through the Biological station. Security guards are at the entrance; an entrance fee of 100 cordobas is payable.
The hike starts relatively easy, and the incline is gradual. As the trek continues, the gradient gets steeper, and the fauna gets thicker. There is quite a lot of shade on the route but still bring plenty of sun cream, water, and refreshments as there are no shops or anything nearby.
Once you reach the waterfall, it’s time to jump in. The water is cold, so it’s very refreshing after a hot and sticky hike to get there.
The hike back down is straightforward and should take about 45 minutes or so.
#5 Brave the Concepción Volcano Hike.
I must admit, I couldn’t face hiking Volcáno Concepción when I visited Ometepe. The weather was hot and sticky, and the thought of a 10-hour hike had me running scared! I had hiked Volcán Acatenango in Guatemala two weeks previously, and I was content with that for now.
Friends of mine did the Concepción Volcano hike, so I can tell you about their experience. In total, the hike took 10 hours to the summit and back. The incline is steep, 45 degrees for a lot of the hike, and the ground underneath your feet is unsteady. As you climb higher, the wind picks up a lot, which can be pretty unpleasant.
When you visit Ometepe, you will notice that a cloud layer often surrounds both Volcánic peaks. It clears periodically throughout the day and usually returns for the evening.
The visibility is very poor if you reach the summit and the clouds have come in. Although a very rewarding experience, I’m sure, it does put a bit of a dampener on the day if you can’t appreciate the fantastic views.
A Guide is mandatory when hiking Volcan Concepcion
A guide is mandatory to hike Volcan Concepcion for safety reasons, as paths are unclear, and this is an active Volcáno. There are not any group tours doing the hike, so you must hire a private guide to assist you. A private guide can cost $25 per person; if you are a bigger group, you may be able to negotiate a better price. You also potentially need to pay for transport to the start point; check what is included.
You can’t use your transport as you finish in a different location. This hike is challenging, you need to be fit, and I’ve heard that many people don’t make it to the summit and return after getting so far.
I asked my friend, who was covered in dust, was it worth it? ‘Sure’ he said, before walking away in a little grimace, his thighs on fire! I’m not convinced!
You don’t need to book the activity in advance so wait until you arrive and decide what you want to do. If you choose to face the challenge, book the day before so all travel arrangements and starting times can be agreed upon.
#6 Maderas Volcano Hike
A hike to the summit of Volcán Maderas is also an option while looking for things to do on Ometepe Island. Comparing this hike with Concepción, the summit is not quite as high, and the gradient is not quite as steep.
Saying that the hike is still very tough. It can take 8 hours to the summit and back, so not much less time than Concepción. You also need a guide to hike this Volcano; it would be irresponsible to hike without one.
It may be worth speaking to your hostel or a local guide once you arrive to decide which hike to do if you have your heart set on doing one or the other.
#7 Kayak on Rio Istián
Kayaking is a popular activity to do on Ometepe and can be done independently or as a tour. There is a restaurant called Playa Mangos Kayaks and Restaurant close to Santa Maria. You can rent kayaks here for a few hours or have a guided tour along Rio Istián lasting 3-4 hours.
Rio Istián Is a river and swamp land meandering through the flat isthmus between the two Ometepe Volcanoes. Wildlife and fauna are abundant here, especially during the wet season.
On a kayak trip, you will see several bird species, and if you’re lucky, you may even see a caiman, turtles, and howler monkeys. Kayak rental starts from $10 per hour (for a twin kayak – two people). Tours are a little more expensive.
As we were planning to hire kayaks, there was a downpour of rain, and a thunderstorm quickly started, so we decided to put that plan on hold and hurried back to our hostel. Unfortunately, I didn’t kayak, but this is just a reason to return one day.
#8 Don't spend time at Playa Santa Cruz
We wanted to spend some time relaxing at Playa Santa Cruz beach. The setting is excellent, with views of both volcanoes and a few vendors selling snacks; however, there were so many sand flies everywhere it was pretty unpleasant.
Even going in the water, the flies were as far as the eye could see. I’m not sure if it was just the time of year (February) or if it is always like that. Some people didn’t seem bothered by them, but it wasn’t good for me.
#9 Do Spend Time at Playa Santo Domingo
As an alternative, further north is Playa Santo Domingo Beach. This beach is a long stretch of grey sand and feels more remote than Sant Cruz Beach. There were still some sand flies here but not nearly as many as at Sant Cruz Beach.
The beach is flanked by lush jungle, and we saw a couple of beautiful horses grazing. There were some terrific photo opportunities as the sun set behind the jungle.
Where to stay on Ometepe – Hostel Guide
Isla de Ometepe consists of many small villages dotted around the island. Many are of no interest to tourists as they are just houses. I recommend a few areas to stay in to make the most of your visit.
As the things to do on Ometepe Island are spread around, it’s a good idea to consider splitting your time between a couple of different locations.
As Ometepe island is quite large, deciding where you want to stay is essential. It’s even more critical if you do not hire any form of transport.
Accommodation in Moyogalpa
If you catch the boat from San Jorge, you will arrive at the Port in Moyogalpa. Moyogalpa is one of the largest settlements on the island, but it is a small place. This is the only place with ATM’s so if you need cash, collect it before moving on.
The high street runs directly from the pier to the main ring road around the island. There are a couple of supermarkets, travel agencies, restaurants, and cafes.
We decided to stay here for a couple of nights to arrange the scooter rental and be close to Punta Jesus Maria. Another reason to stay here is a few cheaper accommodation options. We stayed at Hostel Coco’s, a family-run business offering an excellent price for simple accommodation.
I paid less than $6 per night, including breakfast, a choice of fruit, or traditional rice and beans.
If you want to stay at Hostel Coco and support the local community, use booking.com for the best rates.
Accommodation in Balgue, Ometepe
Another popular location to stay in Ometepe is near Balgue, on the other side of the island near Maderas (the north side).
Several eco-lodges dotted along the shoreline here offer good value depending on what you are looking for. Balgue is an excellent base to explore the southern end of the island. There is definitely a bit of a hippie vibe going on in this part of town, so if that is your scene, you will enjoy this place.
I stayed at the Lazy Crab Hostel, attracted by the fantastic bright interior. This was another excellent hostel I was pleased to stay in, and again, very cheap, less than $10 per night.
This hostel has a pool table, a small kitchen, and a couple of rooftop spaces perfect for chilling in a hammock or reading a book. The birds and noises in the wilderness are so loud. I passed out in the hammock after a big night out and woke by the jungle coming alive as the sun rose; it was a great experience.
Another hostel I heard good things about but didn’t stay at myself was El Pital Chocolate Paradise. This hostel has private access to the lake and offers free daily yoga classes.
Sleep in wooden huts and enjoy outdoor showers in the jungle. There are plenty of spaces to relax in the gardens and enjoy the sun terrace and the shoreline. They are also famous for their homemade chocolate. They welcome visitors to their restaurant, so you don’t have to stay here to get a taste for yourself.
Where to eat on Isla de Ometepe
There are various restaurants and cafes all around the island. However, the highest concentration is in Moyogalpa. I would give a special shout-out to Soda Los Antojitos. Find them on the main ring road in the centre of town, and you must try their smoothies, they are the best!
It is always hot and humid on the island, and these smoothies have just the right mix of ice cream and natural fruit. Very refreshing and very tasty. The food is also worth trying, large portions at good prices. I almost missed the boat, determined to get one last taste before we left.
You can find another cluster of good restaurants near the Hostel Lazy Crab. I ate a couple of times at Café Campestre, and the food was always good; they even offer Indian food, which is a bit of a novelty here.
Other local restaurants are Isla Bonita and Café Comedor Isabel. The opening hours don’t seem very regular except for Café Campestre so consider this when making your choice.
How many days do you need on Ometepe Island?
I stayed for four nights on Ometepe Island, with half of my time in Moyogalpa and half in Balgue. This was a good balance and allowed me to split up activities and save on driving time.
There are lots of things to do on Ometepe Island so I wouldn’t stay for less time than four days unless you are very time limited. I met people on the island who ended up staying for months; they fell in love with the lifestyle and charm of the island.
How to get to Isla De Ometepe
If you travel from the north, either Granada or Leon, or from the south, either Costa Rica or San Juan Del Sur, you will first need to travel to Rivas.
Be careful at Rivas Bus Station
Rivas is a major transport hub, and the bus station is non-stop action. It’s one of the few places in Nicaragua where everyone seems to be colluding together to rip you off.
As soon as you get off your bus, several taxi drivers will approach you, asking where you are going. Once you tell them, they will try to convince you the next bus doesn’t leave for hours, or there isn’t a bus at all.
All of this is usually rubbish, but the problem is it’s hard to find accurate information as there is no kiosk to ask for information. I asked a local who took me to the bus I wanted (literally a 30-second walk), and he wanted money from me.
Putting everything into perspective, any money you give someone for help or even a taxi is very cheap, so don’t get too frustrated.
Ferry from San Jorge to Moyogalpa Ometepe
The easiest way to get to Ometepe Island is via the Ometepe ferry from San Jorge Port on the mainland. The cost of the ferry is 50 cordobas and takes 60 minutes. Ferries depart regularly throughout the day.
You must also pay an entry fee at the Port of 36 cordobas. Initially, I thought this was a scam. It turned out to be legitimate, I had a proper receipt, and everyone was paying.
How to get to San Jorge (Nicaragua)
To get to San Jorge, you need to pass through Rivas.
Regular buses run from Rivas to San Jorge, or taxis are cheap, especially if you are more than one person. A cab cost 200 Cordobas for four of us, so 50c each.
If you travel from Granada to Ometepe, the bus to Rivas costs 100 cordobas and takes a couple of hours.
The journey from San Juan Del Sur to Rivas is much shorter and should cost less than 50 cordobas.
After I left Ometepe, my next stop was San Juan Del Sur. As I was with a group of four people, we decided to take a taxi that cost 100 cordobas per person from San Jorge to San Juan Del Sur.
FAQs about Ometepe Island (Isles de Ometepe) answered
Is Ometepe Island Safe for Tourists
Understandably questions about safety are very common in this part of the world. In my experience, smaller places are usually safer than large cities. Ometepe falls into this category; it felt very safe on the island.
You feel everyone knows everyone, which helps reduce crime on the island. Take standard precautions and avoid driving after dark as there are no street lights.
Is Isla De Ometepe Worth Visiting?
Ometepe is 100% worth visiting. Where else can you stay on a Volcanic Island and drive around on a scooter in relative safety?
As mentioned, there are many great things to do on Ometepe, and some people visit for a few days, fall in love with the place, and stay for months. It can have this charm on people as it’s such a unique place to visit.
Ensure you add Ometepe to your Nicaragua Backpacking Itinerary.
Where to Next After Ometepe Island?
The next destinations after Ometepe are usually the Spanish colonial town of Granada or the beach town of San Juan Del Sur.
It’s also easy to go across the border to Costa Rica from Ometepe as it’s not far from the border.
I hope this guide on Isla De Ometepe has been helpful and you have an idea of all the exciting things to do on Ometepe and the best areas to stay to make the most of your trip.
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