Where is Livingston in Guatemala?
Livingston Guatemala is one of the most remote destinations in the country, only accessible by boat. The town sits on the Caribbean coast, in Amatique Bay, at the mouth of Rio Dulce in the east of Guatemala.
Livingston can be reached by boat from Puerto Barrios and Rio Dulce in Guatemala. From Puerto Barrios it’s easy to carry onward to Honduras.
There are usually boats directly to Punta Gorda in Belize, however, in 2022 these weren’t running due to Belize border restrictions.
The main street in Livingston, Calle Principal, is reached via a steep hill from the main pier and immigration office. Most restaurants and facilities are found on this street.
Another popular spot in town is south of the pier where you can find some budget hostels and more restaurants along the shoreline.
Introduction to Livingston Guatemala
Livingston is one of the most unique places in Guatemala that you will visit. A lot of the residents in Livingston are descendants of the Garifuna people.
Today, there is an increase in the Mayan culture, and you will see a lot of local businesses are owned and operated by Mayan, rather than Garifuna.
As you get off the boat there is a sense of a different vibe and culture here and the flora and fauna look that little bit different.
Along the north coast of town is where the Garifuna bars and restaurants used to be most prominent. Unfortunately, as of 2022 nearly all the bars and restaurants are closed, and the area is a bit of a ghost town.
Speaking to local Garifuna, they feel marginalised in their country and investment in Livingston has been somewhat neglected. It’s sad to see and not what I was expecting.
Why visit Livingston Guatemala?
Stepping into Livingston feels like stepping into a different country. The main language of the Garifuna community is English and Garifuna, which for me was so strange after hearing Spanish for so long.
Although Livingston enjoys a lot of Caribbean coast, unfortunately, a lot of the beaches are contaminated and not suitable for swimming.
It’s a beach town in Guatemala without the beach!
Similar to nearby Rio Dulce, Livingston is not packed with loads of activities but it’s still a worthwhile place to visit in Guatemala in my opinion.
If you travelling to Central America and you want to see as many places as possible and experience different cultures, Livingston offers a unique culture.
If you are visiting Belize or Honduras after Guatemala this is another good reason to visit Livingston Guatemala as it can easily be added to your route.
Things to do in Livingston
There are a few things to do in Livingston to keep you occupied for a couple of days.
Visit Los Siete Altares (The Seven Waterfalls)
One of the best things to do in Livingston is visit Los Siete Altares. It’s a bit of a hike to get here, however, it’s worthwhile.
Los Siete Altares are seven freshwater pools, one flowing into the next. It’s not quite on the same scale as Semuc Champey but never the less, a great day out.
They are not very busy so you may be lucky enough to have the pools to yourself.
How to get to Los Siete Altares
First, from the centre of Livingston flag down a tuk-tuk and ask them to take you to Siete Altares. They can only take you so far as a bridge, as the road doesn’t go the whole way. The charge to go to the pedestrian bridge should be Q10.
Second, you need to cross the bridge and walk along the coast until you reach the entrance to the waterfalls. The walk takes about 45 minutes but I really enjoyed the walk.
Experience the Caribbean coast and hanging palm trees, it’s such a shame the water is not really clean, although I did see some locals swimming.
I found it best to hike/climb/walk to the 6th or 7th waterfall where the water is deeper and you can swim.
You need to pay a small fee to enter the waterfalls and you can stay as long as you like. Be aware that the park closes at 4pm. I don’t advise leaving later than this anyway to ensure you can get back before dark.
Chill on Playa Blanca
Playa Blanca is one of a few of Caribbean beaches in Livingston suitable for swimming. The only way you can reach this beach is by boat as there is no walking trail. I didn’t go myself as I heard mixed reviews if it was worthwhile or not.
The entrance to the beach is Q30 (which includes a drink) and you have to pay for a boat to take you.
Another option is to do a tour that includes a stop at Playa Blanca and Siete Altares. There are a couple of travel agencies in Livingston or you can check with your hostel for the best prices.
Explore the Traditional Garifuna Village
If you only walk the main high street in Livingston you will be missing out on a large part of the history of the town.
Search for Coco Bangos on google maps and head in this direction. When I visited the area seemed a bit of a ghost town. Almost all of the shops and bars were closed and there weren’t many people around.
There are no road markings or signs but you must turn inland and walk behind some of the restaurants. Then you will find yourself in the Garifuna village, where there is a couple of shops and restaurants.
I was approached by a local who offered to show me and a few others around and he talked about the history of Livingston and the troubles his community has faced over the years.
He was very welcoming, and of course, spoke English which made things a little easier. After walking around with us for an hour or so and talking to some of his neighbours he left us at one of the few local restaurants that were open.
He did expect a tip from us, and I was happy to do so as he was very informative and friendly. He told us not a lot of tourists visit his area. I think a reason for that is a lack of signage and a lack of amenities.
It’s a real shame and I hope his community can turn things around and appeal to the tourists again as they really need this income.
Admire the Street Art (Not the Usual Guatemala Style)
Walk around town and you will notice various street art and murals painted on walls and buildings. This is not unusual in Guatemala but these paintings reflect the local culture here and therefore different to any other place in the country.
Check out the Fish Drying Yards
No idea if fishing yards is the technical name or not, probably not! There are a couple of places around town that are used to dry out the fish caught during the previous days.
It’s quite a sight to see the floor completely covered in every direction with these fish. Keep a look out near the docks, and just off the main street to see this awesome attraction!
How to get Around Livingston
Once you have arrived in Livingston Guatemala you can walk most places. If you visit Siete Altares it’s easier to get a tuk-tuk. If you are out late at night you can also consider getting a tuk-tuk back to your accommodation.
Where to stay in Livingston
There are two areas that most people stay in Livingston. A lot of the cheaper backpacker hostels are located south of the ferry dock.
Another alternative is in the middle of town, slightly inland.
As I’m a budget traveller and enjoy staying in hostels I stayed at Hotel La Casa Rosada. They have a large dorm room with amazing views out over the Caribbean Sea.
They have a private dock so if you are coming from Rio Dulce or Puerto Barrios you can get dropped off right at the hostel.
They have a garden, hammocks and large seating area to enjoy and offer reasonable price meals too.
Where to Eat in Livingston
There are plenty of budget restaurant options available in Livingston. Walk along the main street away from the pier and you start to find cheaper options.
Whilst in Livingston I recommend you try local Garifuna fish at least once. I went to Las Tres Garifunas and the food and service were great.
How to get to Livingston Guatemala
Wherever you are coming from you will need to take a boat to Livingston as there is no roads to the mainland.
How to get to Livingston from Rio Dulce
Livingston is very easy to reach from Rio Dulce. Enjoy a scenic boat ride along the river to reach Livingston, the journey will take 90 minutes. The cost should be a maximum of Q125.
You will be able to arrange your transportation with your hotel or hostel in Rio Dulce. Alternatively, if you are based in Rio Dulce Town head to the dock near Sundog Cafe and ask when the next boat leaves.
How to get to Livingston from Honduras
If you are coming from Honduras the journey involves buses and boats. You will cross the Honduras-Guatemala border (Frontera) near Corinto.
When you have cleared immigration and entered Guatemala you will need to take a bus to Puerto Barrios. The cost should be Q50.
From the bus stop in Puerto Barrios walk or take a taxi to the pier to take a boat to Livingston. The boat should cost another Q50.
How to get to Livingston from Elsewhere in Guatemala
If you are coming to Livingston from Antigua or Guatemala City the shortest route to go to Puerto Barrios. Find a shuttle service in town and check the prices and schedules. From Puerto Barrios, it’s a short boat ride as mentioned above.
Is Livingston Safe?
The smaller places in Guatemala were usually the safest as everyone knows each other. Livingston falls into this bracket.
I walked around after dark by myself and felt safe. The streets were often busy. Take usual precautions and if you feel unsafe take a tuk-tuk.
Is Livingston Guatemala Worth Visiting?
I asked myself the question, is Livingston worth visiting before I visited myself. I would say that Livingston is not my top destination in Guatemala. It doesn’t compare to Flores or Lake Atitlan in my opinion.
However, if you are visiting Rio Dulce its makes sense to visit Livingston as it is so close. It’s only a short boat ride away and you are so close. If you are also travelling to Honduras or Belize and Livingston is on your way anyway, then definitely it is worth it to travel here.
If you have limited time in Guatemala I would prioritise other destinations as mentioned.
Where to Next?
As mentioned, after Livingston I travelled to Honduras. This is an easy border crossing to then go onwards to Bay Islands or elsewhere in Honduras.
I believe it is also possible to travel by boat to Belize (Punta Gorda) from Livingston. I went in 2022 during the pandemic and there were no boats to Belize at the time but maybe they will start again in the future.