Where is Rio Dulce Guatemala?
Rio Dulce Guatemala is tucked away in the far east corner of Guatemala near the borders with Honduras to the east and Belize to the north. Rio Dulce is very close to the Caribbean Sea and Caribbean coast and has a different vibe from other parts of Guatemala.
Introduction to Rio Dulce Guatemala
Rio Dulce, meaning sweet river, is a river flowing 43km from Lake Izabal (Lago Izabal) through to the Caribbean Sea. Rio Dulce Town is located centrally on the river as Lake Izabal narrows.
The town of Rio Dulce (officially known as Fronteras, but always referred to as Rio Dulce Town) is a hectic, dusty, somewhat dirty town. It’s a vital cargo route trafficking goods from Honduras to the north of Guatemala and on to Belize.
The town consists mainly of shops, markets, and homes along the main highway CA13. As you walk the narrow sidewalks in town you need to be mindful of the constant stream of haulage trucks passing by. One wrong step and you might lose a toe!
When I planned my visit to Rio Dulce, my mind was set on exploring the river, more so than the town. The river is in complete contrast to the hectic town, although I recommend experiencing both.
Why visit Rio Dulce Guatemala?
Rio Dulce, the river, is a place to relax and take it easy for a few days. Dotted along the riverbanks are many eco-lodges offering a comfortable stay in wooden huts. There are not a ton of things to do, which is why it’s ideal to relax.
The banks of the river are covered in thick jungle forests and provide an ideal setting for wildlife. Explore the river by boat or kayak and go bird spotting.
Many of the hostels provide free use of kayaks that you can use by yourself and go explore the river. This is one of the best things to do in Rio Dulce, but there are more too.
If you are backpacking Central America, Rio Dulce is a great stop on any Guatemala itinerary.
Storms and Power Cuts
I visited Rio Dulce with a friend and we had non-stop rain for 24 hours. This didn’t dampen our mood as it was quite an experience to hear the rain crashing down above us as we chilled in the open air lounge area of our lodge.
We had intermittent power cuts and lightning, and we loved it!
It was an opportunity to forget about our phones and play some card games and talk with fellow travellers.
Things to do in Rio Dulce
Although not blessed with lots of things to do as such, Rio Dulce has enough to keep you busy for a few days.
Here is a list of the things to do in Rio Dulce Guatemala
Visit the old Spanish fort of Castillo de San Felipe.
Originally the fort was built in 1644 by the Spanish to defend against the British and protect the valuable trade route.
You can visit the castle for a small fee of 75 Quetzales. From the main town, it will take about 1 hour to walk there. Alternatively, flag down a tuk-tuk in town and negotiate a price.
The castle itself is small but it’s set on beautiful grounds with lots of green spaces.
Another option is to view the castle from the river. This can be done as part of a larger tour of the river, or you could kayak there yourself.
Visit Cascadas El Paraiso (Paradise Waterfalls)
Cascadas El Paraiso is a short bus journey from Rio Dulce Town, about 30 minutes. A natural hot springs and waterfalls, this place is perfect for a lazy afternoon. Unfortunately, I was unable to visit as during my stay it rained for much of the time.
From Rio Dulce Town, walk a few minutes to the main road called 7E which heads southwest out of town. Flag down any bus going in this direction. Ensure you leave the waterfalls with plenty of time before it gets dark. As I didn’t go there personally, I’m not sure of the last bus, so don’t miss it.
To read reviews of people that did go, check out Tripadvisor reviews
Kayak on Rio Dulce
One of the best things to do in Rio Dulce Guatemala is to get out on the river and appreciate the beautiful setting you find yourself in.
Most hostels provide free kayaks or canoes so make good use of them. Rio Dulce is very long, and Lake Izabal very large, so you won’t be able to see everything.
Kayaks are best used to explore the area near where you are staying. You will likely be too far from Rio Dulce Town so don’t think about kayaking that far unless you want to get some good exercise.
Near the hostel, there was a pontoon anchored in the middle of the river which was perfect for a little jumping into the river. If you need a break from kayaking, here is the place to go for a jump and a swim.
Guided tour on Rio Dulce
My number one favourite thing to do in Rio Dulce was to ride up the river in a boat. The only real way to see and experience this is on a tour. The tours take place on little speed boats offering panoramic views of everything around you.
If you are travelling onward to Livingston a tour isn’t necessary as the boat to Livingston acts in the same way as a tour.
If you book a tour or transportation with your hostel you will be collected from there.
On the tour, you will first sail under the Puente de Rio Dulce (Rio Dulce Bridge) towards Castillo de San Felipe. This provides a close-up view of the castle but be aware you can’t depart the boat.
Afterward, the boat turns around and heads north towards a much wider boy of water called El Golfete.
See giant water lilypads, local houses built on stilts over the river, reptiles, and lots of birds. The boat slows down and stops providing the chance to take photos when necessary.
Further north on the river the think jungle falls away and is replaced with steep rock cliffs on both sides. Keep a look out for many Stalks chilling in the trees on the riverbanks.
Finally, you will be taken back to your hostel. Prices from the tour range from Q150 to Q200 and unfortunately you are kind of forced to go with your accommodation as it’s not easy to move around once here.
Catch up on some Reading in a Hammock
Backpacking and travelling can be exhausting at times. Rio Dulce is an ideal place to relax, so find a hammock at your hostel and take some time out.
Catch up on some reading, or carefully plan your future route, where do you go next.
Visit the ancient Mayan ruins at the Acropolis of Quiriguá
There is a lesser-known Mayan site very close to Rio Dulce. The Acropolis of Quiriguá is less than a 90-minute drive away.
Not quite as impressive as Tikal, it has more intricate carvings to see as opposed to large structures like those seen at Tikal or other Mayan sites.
Getting to Quiriguá is possible using public transport from Rio Dulce Town. It’s best to leave early in the morning so you can visit before it gets too hot and you have the chance to get back before dark.
A bus (Fuente del Norte) departs every morning at 8.30 towards Coban (Q45) and you can ask to be stopped near Quiriguá. The bus will stop on the main road and you then have a couple of options. You can walk about 45 minutes to the entrance of the national park, or take a tuk-tuk for about Q20.
How to get around in Rio Dulce Guatemala
Once you leave Rio Dulce Town, which is walkable, the only transport option is local boats. Your accommodation should collect you from the mainland and take you to the hostel.
If you are staying not too far from the town there is no charge. Some hostels are a lot further downriver and closer to Livingston. In these instances, they charge a fee up to Q100 to collect you.
A common pick-up point is Sundog café in Rio Dulce Town. This is a bar on the banks of the river. Once you arrive talk to the staff and ask them to call your accommodation. They have an agreement with the hostels so expect this and are happy to help.
You will have to wait for the boat to come so this is a good time to have lunch or dinner.
Once you have arrived at your hostel on the river you are a little stranded. You can kayak around the lake by yourself but only within proximity to where you are.
If you need to get back to the town or wanted to go to a different hostel you need to ask your accommodation. There should be set fees for various journeys. From my hostel to Rio Dulce town the charge was Q25 which isn’t too bad.
Where to stay in Rio Dulce?
Review of Hotel Casa Perico, Río Dulce, Guatemala
As previously mentioned, there are several eco hostels dotted around Rio Dulce (the lake). Some are close to the town and others are much further away.
I stayed at Hotel Casa Perico which was about a 10-minute boat ride from town. I chose this place due to its proximity to the town so I had an easy option to go to town when I wanted.
The hostel was perfect and had everything you needed. It is hidden away in the jungle offering peaceful surroundings.
The food and drink are a bit more expensive than in the rest of Guatemala as you would expect with the isolated location, but it wasn’t too bad.
The rooms are comfortable and all beds have netting to protect them from any insects, although when I was there this wasn’t a problem.
Review of Hotelito Perdido, Río Dulce, Guatemala
Another place I would recommend as I had a few friends who stayed there and enjoyed it is Hotelito Perdido. This hostel is much closer to Livingston and takes almost an hour by boat to arrive from Rio Dulce Town.
In this location, you are stuck here as it’s too far to easily go back and forth to Rio Dulce Town. This place sounds like it had better newer facilities than Casa Perico so it depends if you’re happy being so far away from the town.
Restaurants in Rio Dulce
Rio Dulce is not known for its great restaurant and café culture like such as places like Antigua. It is great for a backpacker travelling on a budget as there are many cheap places to eat and drink in town.
Sundog Café serves good food at good prices and has comfortable seating areas with perfect views of the river.
My favourite place to eat was a large food court on the main road called Churrasqueria Chusin. At the front of the restaurant, they have large barbeques marinating meats and the portion sizes are huge. Try a tortilla or Longanizas for only Q25 each. And remember, the portion sizes are huge!
Once you leave town and are staying at your accommodation you have limited options. If you stay close to town, you can always travel back and forth to eat.
It’s much easier to eat at your hostel and where I stayed had plenty of good options to choose from. I would advise you to bring some snacks and maybe some fruit with you as there are likely no options available at your accommodation.
How to get to Rio Dulce Guatemala
Rio Dulce is not the easiest place to travel to, which is why it’s often omitted from a backpackers’ itinerary. You could arrive here from a number of different locations so I try to explain as many options as possible.
How to Travel From Tikal to Rio Dulce (and Flores to Rio Dulce)
I arrived in Rio Dulce from Flores, where I visited Tikal. The journey is very easy as there is a direct bus leaving from the main Flores bus station. The main bus station is not on the island of Flores, it is 2km south.
Check with the local travel agencies to find the latest bus schedules and make sure you arrive a few minutes early. It’s best to book with a local agency in Flores as they then give you a ride to the bus station.
The ticket was the same price purchasing from an agent as buying directly at the main bus station. The cost of the ticket was Q120.
How to Travel From Lanquin or Semuc Champey to Rio Dulce
If you’ve just visited Semuc Champey, or Semuc is your next stop, you will first need to travel to Lanquin.
On a map, the journey from Lanquin to Rio Dulce doesn’t look too bad. That is until you find out the roads are in very bad condition on this route. No buses are running this route and the only option is a private 4-wheel drive vehicle.
There are a couple of agencies in Lanquin that can arrange this transport for you. The cost of the journey is Q1,200 and normally they like to have 4 people make the journey, so it costs Q300 per person.
Head to the agency as soon as possible to advise them of the date you want to leave. You will need to pay a deposit of Q100 and they will then try to find other people to go with you if you are not 4 people.
Be aware that if you are not prepared to pay the full Q1,200 and they can’t find other people you may have to wait extra days in Lanquin.
For this reason, I advise against taking this route, it’s very expensive. A much better option is to go via Flores and then to Rio Dulce. Flores is an awesome destination so it shouldn’t be missed!
How to Travel to Rio Dulce From Livingston
If you have crossed the border from Belize or Honduras, your first stop in Guatemala may be Livingston. It’s very easy to travel from Livingston to Rio Dulce. Multiple boats are departing Livingston every day to Rio Dulce. The cost is Q120.
How to Travel From Antigua to Rio Dulce
The drive from Antigua to Rio Dulce is long and can take 10 hours or so, therefore leaves at 4 am. It is best to ask local agencies in Antigua for the latest schedule and prices. As a guide, GuateGo, a popular service in Guatemala charges $46 for this route so use this as a guide price.
Is Rio Dulce safe to visit?
The town of Rio Dulce is mainly one long main road and there isn’t much reason to stay here long. If you do stay here and go to one of the restaurants, safety should be fine. Stick to the main road where there are always many people around.
If you are staying at one of the eco-lodges on the river it will be completely safe as you are isolated from the mainland.
Is Rio Dulce worth visiting?
Is Rio Dulce worth visiting, this is a question I asked myself before I visited and afterward. It is a destination a bit out of the way so it takes effort to get here. As mentioned above there isn’t a bucketload of activities to do once you arrive.
It depends on what you want and what you enjoy. I stayed 3 nights and it rained most of the time so I took the time to completely unwind and relax. For me, that was what I needed.
Another consideration was that I am on a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Guatemala and Central America so I wanted to see as much as possible. I planned to go to Honduras after Guatemala so it was a natural stop on my route.
It also provides the opportunity to go to Livingston which is another unique experience in Guatemala. So, for me, it was two locations for the price of one.
In conclusion, I would 100% say it is worthwhile to visit Rio Dulce and experience as much of Guatemala as possible.
Where to next?
After Rio Dulce, I visited Livingston as it is only a 90-minute boat ride away. Livingston is another unique destination, the only place in the country you will see the Garifuna culture.
From Livingston you have the option to travel to Belize or Honduras. Alternatively, you can travel back south towards Guatemala City and Antigua from Puerto Barrios.
Latest new in Rio Dulce & Guatemala
I found a useful news outlet that provides up-to-date info on events and travel within Guatemala. Visit Guatemala.com for further reading and inspiration. If you ever hear of road blocks or anything else, check this site out first.